On a recent trip to this wondrous city of canals, writer Arthur Wooten was delighted to discover that several wonderful new restaurants had opened to tease and tantalize our tastebuds. He rented an apartment in the San Marco neighborhood in Venice and as soon as his bags were unpacked, he grabbed the proverbial fork and headed out to explore the new culinary offerings that awaited.
TAVERNETTA SAN MAURIZIO
I must have walked by Tavernetta San Maurizio a dozen times, and yet it didn’t register for some reason. It was a bit late in the evening and upon entering I discovered the place was buzzing with activity, yet it felt warm and inviting, more like a best friend’s home than a public restaurant.
I immediately ordered a crisp chilled Soave, but before looking at the menu I glanced around at the surrounding tables to see what diners had ordered and to my immediate right was a gorgeous dish of scallops. The woman saw me glancing and waited to catch my eye as she smiled and nodded her head, yes. I smiled back and ordered it as an antipasti, the scallops on zucchini cream and toasted almonds. The dish was as delicious as it was beautiful. The zucchini cream was vibrant in color and yet subtle enough in taste to highlight the seared scallops beautifully.
For an entree I ordered their pappardelle with duck ragù. The restaurant-made pappardelle melted in my mouth and the duck ragù had this amazingly intense flavor. I asked the waiter how the chef created this and he said, “We slowly simmer the duck to tenderize and bring out its true essence.” Calle Zaguri, 2619. Tel. +39-349-293-5708. tavernettasanmaurizio.eatbu.com/
RISTOTECA ONIGA
First of all, make reservations for Ristoteca Oniga because it’s very popular. Once I entered the super cozy, wood paneled dining room with pots, pans, and glass ornaments hanging almost haphazardly from the ceiling and walls, I was ready to settle in for a terrific meal. Oniga prides itself in their search for the freshest and most sustainable ingredients they can find, from their vegetables to their seafood. And on this visit, I decided on two items I’ve never had before. First up as an appetizer was their fried squid with glasswort and balsamic vinegar. Glasswort is an edible succulent that grows plentifully in Venice’s salt marsh areas. And when it is deep fried with the calamari, it has a nutty and salty flavor with a wonderful crunch. Plus, it looks stunning. The drizzling of balsamic is the perfect counter point for the saltiness. The squid was so fresh and so tender.
As a main course I ordered their spaghetti with cuttlefish in black ink. If you’ve never tried this dish, the ink infuses the pasta with a subtle brininess, almost an umami-like flavor. It’s all much less intimidating than the visuals of the dish or the black tongue you will exhibit for the rest of the evening. Dorsoduro 2852 Campo San Barnaba. +39-041-522-4410. www.oniga.it/
L’BACARO DE’ BISCHERI
L’bacaro De’ Bischeri is great for a light meal if you are busy seeing the sughts in Venice. They make delicious Venetian sandwiches, the size of my head. My favorite at the moment is their beef with spicy sauce, salad, and sun-dried tomatoes. And all are served on their homemade focaccia. They also offer a wonderful selection of cicchetti that are out of this world. I love their trio of caramelized onions, olive pâté and dried tomatoes, the lard, olive pâté and chopped hazelnuts, and also their mortadella, stracciatella cheese, and chopped pistachios. Ruga dei Oresi, 57. Tel.+39-041-458-7173. glovoapp.com/it/en/venezia/l-bacaro-de-bischeri-vnz/
